I had a lovely time staying with my cousin and his partner near Bern for a few days after arriving in Switzerland. We went into Bern by tram to go to museums, electronic shops (I needed a new Fitbit charger) and to the Christmas Markets. I returned to Bern with the Mystery tour for a lunch stop, later on. The photos I am using are from both the two visits

Bern is known for its town clock and main street lined with arched arcades, a stream runs down the middle and there are many fountains in the middle of the road.

Our first museum was the Einstein House, on Kramgasse. Einstein lived in Bern between 1903 and 1905 while working at the Patent Office, and published five ground-breaking papers including on his theory of relativity while here. The first floor of the museum is set up to reflect the way the apartment may have looked when Einstein and his first wife lived here. The next floor details Einstein’s life and achievements, and includes a video presentation. I have to admit that the most interesting bit, for me, was the Einstein family tree!  A nearby shop has taken advantage of its location and sells Einstein souvenirs as well as watches, and has a figure of Einstein in its window, which is a bit of a laugh. One can buy Einstein figurines with a waving hand (like the cats one sees in Chinese restaurants).

We walked down to the Munster (cathedral). This has an amazing representation of the Last Judgement above the main door, with statues of significant figures like the apostles and major saints around it. During the Reformation, all the statues inside the Munster were removed, smashed and buried in the building of the Munsterplatz, and were rediscovered quite recently during repair work. I saw some of these later, at the Stadt Museum, along with the original statues of the saints from the main door – the current statues on the door are copies. Luckily the main door decoration survived the Reformation. On this occasion the Munster was closed, but I was able to get inside on my return with the tour. Scaffolding obscured the ceiling of the main Nave, but I photographed a picture of the beautiful decorative ceiling of the Chancel (my attempt was not in focus). Like many post-reformation churches, it is rather austere inside, compared with the baroque Catholic churches of Bavaria! I should also note that while the Munster itself dates back to the 15^th century (started in 1421) the spire was only added to the tower in the 19th century, it was completed in 1893. It is the tallest spire in Switzerland, at 100.6 meters.

On the south side of the Munster is the Munsterplatz, a garden or park on an elevated platform above the River Aare. This affords good view over the river down below.

While in Bern I also visited the Alpine Museum of Switzerland. The museum has been given over to an exhibition about the town of Mitholz. In 1947 a munitions storage facility, in the cliff near the village, exploded destroying many houses and killing nine residents. The village was rebuilt, but a safety study commissioned in 2018 found that there were still munitions in the site (half of the original 7000 tons) and that an extensive clean-up is required. The Government announced that the villagers must leave by 2030, while this takes place. Some have sold up, leaving permanently, others are hoping to move back; but the projected completion date is 2040 to 2045. The museum exhibition presents the story of the original explosion, with first-hand accounts, the uses of the tunnel system in the mountain since the explosion, the recent investigation and the struggles of the residents in coming to terms with the requirement to move. I liked the model of the village showing the collapsed cliff-face and also the sensory display presenting smells of Mitholz, in pottery jars, including manure, smoke, hay and coffee and biscuits. I recall the story so I am sure that I have been through Mitholz at some point, but can’t pin down when it might have been.

The third museum that we visited was the Stadt (city) Museum of Bern. We progressed through the museum in time sequence, starting in the archaeology section, which presented finds relating to Celtic and Roman settlement in the area. The city of Bern is said to have been founded in 1191, legend stating that the site was chosen as a result of a bear hunt. Actually, there are good defensive reasons for siting the town where it is: the curve of the Aare and its steep embankments, reminiscent of the siting of Rothenburg. A model of the medieval town illustrates this well.  The museum also houses stone statues from the Cathedral and some reconstructed historic rooms, much like the Landesmuseum in Zurich. There was also a display of the ‘Dance of Death’ that used to be in the Cathedral, like the one in Füssen. One section represents death dancing with a Knight of the Teutonic Order – the Cathedral was governed by the Teutonic Order until 1484. That links up with our visits to Füssen and to Bad Mergentheim last September.

Bern is the capital of Switzerland, and the imposing Parliament building looms above the river, opposite the museum. From the bridge between the two, the Munster can be seen at a different angle. During my time in Bern we visited several Christmas Markets, and we also went to see a film in Worb, as my cousins are volunteers at the cinema and were on duty that night! The city itself is administered from the Rathaus (council offices), a fine medieval building completed about 1416, the grand external stairs being added about 30 years later.

I enjoyed wandering the streets of the old town, and especially liked the different decorative fountains along the main street.

I did get hold of a Fitbit charger, as well!

I arrived in Zurich in the evening of 28 November and made my way by train to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) then on foot to my hotel overlooking the Limmat (the river that flows out of the Zurichsee). Not having slept much on the flight from Sydney and having been awake for over 24 hours, I had an early night! The next morning, Tuesday 29th, I got myself organised and was out of the hotel before 9 am, armed with a tourist map showing a historic walking tour. It was very cold but I was rugged up in multiple layers of thermal clothing and my puffer coat. 

Obeying the map, I retraced my steps to the Hauptbahnhof, walked round to the square on the south side and admired the imposing facade of the station and the statue of a local dignatary in the middle of the road and tram space. Turns out this was Alfred Escher (1819-1882) a Zurich born politician, business leader and railway pioneer – hence his statue outside the station. Not to be confused with M.C. Escher the Dutch artist.

Opposite, Bahnhofstrasse runs southwards, and I followed this street for a bit. It is the main shopping street, and had decorative Christmas lights strung above the road, but at this time of morning, not illuminated. Apparently, this street was built on the site of a ‘fortified moat’ that defended the city up until 150 years ago. 

I came upon a small park with a statue of Joh Heinrich Pestalozzi, with his arm protectively round a child. I had no idea who he was, but he lived 1746 to 1827. Later, I found that Wikipedia says he was a pedagogue and educational reformer, and wrote many books about education. Beside the park is a small fountain of four nymphs, representing simplicity, purity, sobriety and charity. The fountain dates from 1870, Paris, but was presented to Zurich to initiate the World Convention of Water Experts in 1982. It states on the pedestal that the nymphs are to “symbolise international co-operation in providing people everywhere with pure and salubrious water.” Salubrious = healthy and wholesome.

I continued along Bahnhofstrasse to Uraniastrasse down which I found the small square with the ‘singing Christmas tree’, I will have to return at 5:30 pm to experience this. My route turned along a cobbled lane beside the river and then up Fortunegasse, a steep alley-way that eventually got me to Lindenhof. Lindenhof is an open hilltop plaza with trees (linden trees? I recognised some as oak trees) with great views over the river to the opposite side of the old town. There was a fountain here as well, but my photo of this was an indistinct silhouette.

My route took me back down the hill and along to the St Peterskirche, which has the largest clock-face in Europe, at 8.7 metres across. It is the oldest parish church in Zurich, founded in the 9th century. From there I followed Augustinesgasse back to Bahnhofstrasse. Augustinergasse has some quaint oriel windows above the street, best shown in photographs. I also found an antique shop with interesting and colourful icons for sale.

Proceeding down Bahnhofstrasse again, I walked past the more exclusive shops, Chanel, Gucci etc until Paradeplatz where I was directed down a side street to the Frauminster Kirche..  The Frauminster was a convent founded in 853 by King Louis the German, rebuilt at a later date. To one side a small plaza held some Christmas market stalls (not yet open) and a lovely gated building – don’t know what it was but it looked nice. Alongside this was the Munster Brucke (bridge), from which one can see the Rathaus, built out over the river on the opposite bank, and the GrossMunster looming over the waterfront. 

My path continued down the west bank of the Limmat, and passed the Frauenbad, a swimming bath in the river, apparently only for women. A few minutes’ walk later, I came across a statue of a naked man with a bull. There was no obvious explanation for what this was about. Nearby was a produce market. I wandered round enjoying the colours. Across the road, on the lakeshore is an open space, Burkliplatz, where in summer there are markets and street vendors and in winter a view of the snow-covered Alps, but not today, with low cloud!

I crossed the Limmat here, where it leaves the Zurichsee, and followed the lake side to the Opera House. In the square in front, Sechselauten Platz, is a large Christmas Market (not yet open for the day).  I made a mental note to return in the afternoon. Across the road was a mobile phone shop, where I was able to get an USB adaptor to charge my phone, my European adaptor does not fit Swiss electrical outlets. My map indicated a turn up the hill and along Oberdorfstrasse (which I think translates as ‘road above the village’). There were many medieval buildings, one of which had been a bakery since 1620. 

The road led me to the back of the Grossmunster, and then round to the front and Zwingli Platz. I liked the illustrated doors to the Munster.  The map told me that legend has it that Charlemagne discovered the graves of Felix and Regula (Zurich’s patron saints) here and had the church built on the spot. In the 16th century Huldrych Zwingli began the reformation in Switzerland from the Grossmunster.

I went inside the Munster, and found it rather austere. Outside, near the north door, is a statue of Heinrich Bullinger (1504-1575), he was also a reformer and theologian, the successor to Zwingli. I later found a statue of Zwingli near the Wasserkirche.

From here I was directed down to the Limmatquai and along to the Rathaus, before turning uphill again, which took me past Cabinet Voltaire, the birthplace of Dada. I was rather more interested in an old map in a bookshop window, showing Zurich in 1576! As was typical of the time, east is up. The ‘fortified moat’ mentioned earlier is at the bottom of the map, and substantial walls protected the town on the east as well. I could see one of the old towers on this wall from the top of the hill I had been climbing, but could not get to it.

The road led downhill again to the Neumarkt, then I turned and was led back to Niederdorfstrasse, where another fountain caught my eye. A bit further along, there was a sign indicating more shops down a corridor, here I found Place de Finlande, and a building that looked like it dated from 1612.

Continuing along Niederdorfstrasse, I took a side street (Spitalgasse) to look at another church, this one Prediger Kirche. Then I returned to the Bahnhof (concealed by scaffolding for renovation). Beyond the station I found the Landesmuseum, which looks medieval but was built in the late 19th century, so probably classified as ‘Gothic revival’. I walked as far as the confluence of the Limmat and the Sihl. The Limmat is held back by a weir, the Sihl is at a lower level.

I took a break for lunch and a rest. When I went out again, I first checked at the station for the platform from which trains to Bern depart and went into the ticket office to buy my tickets. I walked down the Limmat Quai to the Christmas market on Sechslauten Platz, in front of the Opera. On the way, I was passed by a red tram driven by Santa Claus, later I saw it unloading children, assisted by two angels. The Christmas Market was mostly food and drink, but did have a lovely Christmas Tree.

I returned to the Werdmuhle Platz and its small market, just food and drink, where I had a hot chocolate and some apple strudel while I waited for the Christmas Tree to sing. The ‘tree’ is a scaffold with greenery, on which children are able to stand (safely) and perform. This evening it was a choir from a bi-lingual school, who sang carols in German and English. After listening for a while, I returned to my hotel. My photos were out of focus, unfortunately! The Platz was crowded with proud parents.

I went to Bern the following day and returned on the third of December. On the fourth, I spent about three hours in the Landesmuseum. I thoroughly enjoyed looking round the different areas of the museum. The Collection has all sorts of items that spread over most of three floors of the museum. These include mixed displays of paintings, furniture and household items; some sleighs; a porcelain display; clothing; and a number of historic rooms, apparently dismantled from the house in which they originated and rebuilt in the museum. These included quite a collection of tiled stoves or ‘turmofen’.

I found a model of the Landesmuseum itself, which shows the merging of the Gothic revival museum with the more modern extension at the back. I spent quite a while in the Archaeology section, looking at the displays of finds from various periods. The History of Switzerland section was also absorbing, with text about major events, pictures and items from each century from the 14th onwards. I took lots of photos, too many to share here, and learned a lot about Switzerland’s history. Women did not all get the right to vote until 1972! The men kept defeating the referendums.

I had a quiet afternoon writing and met up with the Albatross tour passengers in the evening. We all went out to the Christmas Market in the Hauptbahnhof then gathered for a meal in our hotel. We were told that our first stop will be a few hours for lunch in Lucerne, then on to Basel for two nights.