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Free time in Hvar

Up at a reasonable time (on Monday 11 June, 2018) and partook of the excellent hotel buffet breakfast. We decided to walk up to the Fortress before the heat of the day, and set off at 9 am (probably a little late, but hey, we are on holiday). The Fortress is the Forteca Spanjola so called probably because some Spanish military engineers were involved in one phase of its construction. The promenade was an easy walk, but then we started to climb, lots of steps up to the top of the town, and then a sloping zig-zag path through what was established as a Mediterranean Herb Garden but now appears to be mostly pines and agave plants. At one corner, the construction of the wall was interesting, as it appeared to have courses of stones that paralleled the slope, rather than horizontal courses, at least on the lower part. Perhaps that is why the military engineers were called in.

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Rather worn and hot, we eventually got to the Fortress. The view was magnificent, but the actual town was invisible below the trees.

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Information from various sources: The first fort was probably first century BC, there was a Byzantine citadel in the 6th century AD, construction of the present fort began in 1282 (when under Venetian rule). It was largely completed by 1551 (the date above the main gate). It saved the townsfolk from an attack by Ottoman forces in 1571, but unfortunately a lightning bolt hit the gunpowder store at 3:30 am on 9th August, 1579. The explosion destroyed part of the fortress and part of the town beneath it. Repairs and adaptations went on for the next few centuries, with the Austrians building new barracks and raising the battlements. However, when it lost strategic importance in the second half of the 19th century, it was, in local terms, “left for the fairies to dance in at night”.

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It was very hot by the time we arrived, but there is a cafe in the fortress, which provided cooling drinks. We headed down again after a while, and encouraged those still on the way up.

Just off the staircase on the route, is the Benedictine Abbey. We went in and admired the beautiful lace and embroidery produced by the nuns. There are only nine of them left, and all are very old. I don’t think there are any new recruits.

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Lunch from the bakery was eaten in the shade along the promenade. In the afternoon, we went for a swim in the pool, and for me a slide down the water slide. Later, we walked into the town and found a restaurant with a rooftop terrace, which caught the evening breeze. We had a vegetarian entree each, so that we could have dessert. I had a lavender and blueberry cake. It was amazing, and literally tasted how lavender smells, I was not sure if I was eating or inhaling it. I had nearly finished before remembering to record it for posterity.

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